A Five-Day Journey Through Time: Stonehenge, Highclere Castle, and a Chance Celebrity Encounter

Jimmy B

Aug 19

6 min read

There is a distinct magic to the English countryside in July. The hedgerows are thick with wild roses, the wheat fields turn a brilliant, shimmering gold, and the days stretch out long and lazy into the late evening. For anyone raised on British history, literature, or period dramas, Wiltshire and Berkshire are two areas that represent a kind of pastoral holy land.

On a recent midsummer escape from the capital, I set out on a five-day itinerary to check two massive, monumental bucket-list items off my travel list: the prehistoric enigma of Stonehenge and the Edwardian opulence of Highclere Castle (known to millions worldwide as the real-life setting of Downton Abbey).

Traveling by rail, this journey became a masterful exercise in folding time—moving from the deep, unknowable mysteries of the Neolithic era straight into the rigid, gilded etiquette of the early 20th-century aristocracy.

Day 1: Standing with Giants, a Surprise Celebrity, and an Evening Train to Newbury

My journey began with a smooth morning train ride out of London, watching the urban sprawl fade into the rolling green chalk downs of Wiltshire as the carriage glided toward Salisbury. After locking my bags at the station, I boarded the local shuttle out to the windswept expanse of the Salisbury Plain. Stonehenge is a place that needs no introduction, yet nothing quite prepares you for the physical reality of seeing it cut against the horizon for the very first time

Walking along the circular visitor path under the high July sun, the sheer engineering genius of our Neolithic ancestors hits you with immense weight. These are massive sarsen stones—some weighing up to 25 tons—dragged from over twenty miles away, alongside smaller bluestones transported a staggering 140 miles from Wales. Standing there, watching the jackdaws soar within the crevices of the weathered grey stone, you can feel the deep, spiritual gravity of the site. It remains an essential, humbling bucket-list experience that grounds you completely in the sheer depth of human history.

However, the historical magic didn't end at the monument. After returning to the city center of Salsbury from the stones, I started heading downhill to go walk the town. As I made my way down, I caught sight of a familiar face heading in the opposite direction.

Pedaling almost vigorously, but not quite, riding his bike up the gentle hill toward the train station, was a man with a distinct, weathered look. I watched him pass, thinking to myself how much he looked very much like the famous archaeologist Phil Harding from the iconic TV show Time Team. I didn’t want to interrupt his uphill climb, and not sure it was him, so I held my tongue and kept walking. It wasn't until he completely had passed me and reached me about 20 yards that it hit me that Phil Harding is actually based right here in Salisbury!

Later that afternoon, after spending a wonderful few hours walking the historic streets of Salisbury and grabbing a hearty local lunch, I happened to wander into the town's tourist information office. While chatting with the staff, I inquired about my morning sighting and recanted the story, mentioning that I was almost certain I had seen the famous archaeologist riding his bike up by the station.

The bloke working in the office grinned immediately and assured me that my eyes hadn't played tricks on me. He laughed and told me that Phil is absolutely notorious for riding his bike all over Salisbury. He then insisted that I really should have shouted out a greeting to him! He explained that Phil is incredibly friendly, down-to-earth, and always keen to stop and chat with the public. The agent added that Phil is especially delighted to meet fans from outside of the UK, since Time Team isn't widely broadcast or syndicated on mainstream television abroad. I smiled, thinking of how many hours I spent watching old episodes of the show on YouTube back home. Realizing I had just spied a genuine British archaeology legend in his natural habitat was the absolute perfect cap to my day of prehistoric exploration.

With an incredible first day in the books, I headed back to the station in the late afternoon to catch a train deep into Berkshire, arriving in the historic market town of Newbury to check into my base for the next four nights.

Days 2 to 4: The Opulence of Highclere, Canal Walks, and Shifting Hotels

For my first two nights in Newbury, I checked into The Elephant at the Market, a wonderfully lively, historic pub right in the center of town. The pub possessed immense character, serving up incredible food and a classic, buzzing British atmosphere. However, the July heatwave eventually won out. Craving a respite from the midsummer humidity, I packed my bags after two nights and moved just down the road for my final two nights to a modern, beautifully air-conditioned Premier Inn hotel. Walking into that crisp, cool room after a long day under the sun felt like pure luxury

Morning two I secured a cab and set out for another bucket-list item: Highclere Castle.

If Stonehenge is a monument to the collective spirit of ancient humanity, Highclere is the ultimate testament to individual aristocratic ambition.

Walking through the Library—which houses over 5,600 historic books—you can practically smell the centuries of rich leather, beeswax, and woodsmoke. July brings a spectacular light into the drawing rooms, illuminating the priceless van Dyck portraits and the delicate French furniture once owned by Marie Antoinette.

Beyond the upstairs drama, Highclere holds a fascinating real-world historical treasure in its cellars. The 5th Earl of Carnarvon, along with archaeologist Howard Carter, discovered the tomb of King Tutankhamun in 1922. The castle houses a magnificent Egyptian Exhibition, displaying authentic antiquities and personal diaries that catalog the discovery.

After touring the grand interior, the brilliant afternoon weather called for an outdoor break. I lined up at one of the small, charming cafes scattered throughout the estate and purchased a fresh lunch to take out onto the grounds. I carried my meal across the lush lawns until I found a massive, sprawling shade tree. Sitting beneath its cool canopy, I ate my lunch while staring out at a picture-perfect, postcard view of the castle—the exact same framing made famous on television screens worldwide. The tranquility of the estate combined with the heavy afternoon warmth was entirely intoxicating; after polishing off my meal, I lay back on the grass in the deep shade and treated myself to a glorious, peaceful nap right there on the Highclere grounds – as if I were the Earl of Grantham.

Day 3 and 4

I dedicated to slowing down and explore Newbury on foot. I spent two glorious days embarking on long, peaceful pedestrian journeys along the Kennet & Avon Canal. The canal path is a paradise of slow travel. I walked for hours under the warm July sun, watching colorful, narrow canal boats glide lazily through the water, their engines making a rhythmic, soothing hum. The boat owners, decorated with potted flowers on their painted decks, waved cheerfully as they navigated the historic manual locks.

Venture away from the towpath, and Newbury unfolds into a stunning architectural timeline. I also spent hours meandering through the town's historic residential districts, where pristine, timber-framed Elizabethan cottages stand shoulder-to-shoulder with stately Georgian brick townhouses. To top off the explorations, I took a late-afternoon hike up the steep northern hill of the town to visit the dramatic ruins of Donnington Castle. Perched high above the Lambourn Valley, all that survives of this 14th-century stronghold is its magnificent, twin-towered stone gatehouse. Standing beneath the battlements, which still bear the scars of heavy cannon fire from the English Civil War of the 1600s, I looked out over the entire county. The warm July breeze carried the scent of wild grass, and the setting sun cast a deep amber glow over the valleys below.

Day 5: One Last Stroll and Farewell to Berkshire

On my final morning, I woke up determined to soak in the historic atmosphere one last time before heading back to London. Before my train, I went out for a final, leisurely walk right through the core of Newbury. Strolling down the high street as the town was just waking up, the morning light hit the historic facades beautifully. I grabbed a fresh pastry from a local bakery, wandered past the canal basin one last time, and took a quiet loop through the old market place.

By late morning, it was time to say goodbye. I wrapped up my walk, grabbed my backpack, strolled over to Newbury station, and boarded the train back to London.

As the train streaked across the Salsbury plane, I watched a rising tide of gold as barley and wheat swayed in the light breeze while emerald ribbons of English Oaks and twisted hawthorns traced the winding creeks as Berkshire faded into the distance from the train carriage window. I smiled, knowing it was the perfect, quiet finale to an unforgettable five days through British history. #Stonehenge, #Highclere Castle, #Salsbury